Restaurant review: Havana Club and Grill

By Bill Guilfoyle
For the Times Herald-Record
August 01, 2008

Dual concept restaurants seem to be in vogue right now, and they come in a multitude of styles. Last week we visited a restaurant that featured Modern American Cuisine along with sushi and Asian foods. This week we're in Woodstock visiting Havana Club and Grill tucked away in the woods at the Woodstock Lodge. The concept here combines Cuban and Italian cuisines, a theme I've never encountered before.

The extensive menu is in fine print and packed closely together, which makes it difficult to read. And with so many varied choices, it also makes it difficult to decide. How about starting out with Empanadas or Carpaccio? Then you can move on to Paella or Rigatoni alla Vodka. You get the idea. It's an interesting menu, if a bit bipolar.

The room is most handsome and bordered by windows looking out on the woods that surround this place. Chairs are sturdy leather along with striped fabric. A palm tree at the entrance sets a tropical tone and paintings are all different and of no particular theme, but attractive.

Cuban music, fairly loud, blares from the speakers. Tables are set with bright, multicolored napkins folded into triangles and tableware arranged at a slanted angle, quite attractive. There are also an outside patio and a large bar area at the entrance.

We start with two appetizers, one from each theme park. First up is Ceviche ($13), a Latino classic. A tall, thin glass holds chopped shrimp and scallops marinated with mango and avocado. A long, thin spoon is provided alongside, with a thin crisp of plantain. The flavors are wonderful together; the rich avocado and pungent mango pair perfectly with the shellfish.

Mussels al Vino ($9) is next and features large, green-lipped mussels, some with bright red flesh. They are bathed in an intoxicating broth of white wine, garlic and saffron that is delectable. Unfortunately, there are only five of the mollusks to enjoy, and we're never served bread that would have been ideal with the broth.

As a side dish we try Yuquita Fries ($7), which reinvents the french fry. Batons of cassava root are deep-fried and crackling crisp. Alongside is a potent mixture of garlic, cilantro and olive oil, and together they form an inspired duo.

Rissoto Frutti di Mare ($23) is about as Italian as you can get, and the version here is top-notch. A large plate of arborio rice arrives filled with large shrimp, sea scallops, and mussels and clams, both in the shell. The risotto is creamy with a bit of a bite and packed with flavor, more garlic and saffron. And the seafood is perfectly cooked — it's a wonderful plate of food.

How do you make baby back ribs Cuban? Barbecue Ribs ($21) comes with white rice and sweet plantains and a ceramic pot that holds earthy black beans. The ribs are tiny, about as baby as you can get, and are coated in a smoky mixture of spices with a hint of sweetness from the interesting addition of guava paste. They have a nice crust on the outside and are properly tender.

Desserts are mostly brought in from an outside purveyor, but the Tiramisu ($8) is house-made, so we give it a try. A solid square block arrives covered in powdered chocolate. Layered with mascarpone, espresso and chocolate, it's a fine ending to a refreshing meal.

There's a large, varied wine list here. With our Italian and Cuban dinner we drink, what else, a Sauvignon Blanc by Nederus ($20) from South Africa. How international can you get?

Service is provided by the husband-and-wife team who are part owners of this place, Carlo and Annie Pombo. They are all friendly, professional and polite. In the kitchen is Carlo Pombo, a talented chef.

Dinner comes to $105 with wine and cappucino, a good value.

Restaurant critic Bill Guilfoyle has more than 25 years experience in the restaurant industry as a sommelier, manager and chef/owner. He is an associate professor at a local college.